Borealis Addressable SPI Strip Light Installation Guide

• #2 Phillips screwdriver (for mounting bracket screws)
• Jewelers flat blade screwdriver (1/8” wide) (for controller screws)
• Soldering iron

• Borealis Addressable SPI Strip Light
• W-Series RGB Bite Connectors
• Non-dimmable power supply
• Casambi SPI Controller
• Optional: LED Strip Channel

Remember S.A.F.E.T.Y.

S: Shut off power.

A: Ask a licensed electrician if needed.

F: Follow NEC guidelines.

E: Equip yourself with proper PPE.

T: Treat the wires as live.

Y: You are responsible.

Beyond safety, here are a few important things to keep in mind about the product and installation.

• Addressable strip lights are directional. There is a label marked on the wire indicating which direction the wires should go.
• No splits are allowed.

• The strip light comes with a connected lead. Use this if you can because it’s a lot easier to use the built-in lead. Only cut and solder if you absolutely have to.
• Avoid placing any weight or pressure directly on the strip light, as this can damage the internal components.
• Always use parallel wiring rather than series wiring to ensure consistent voltage and safer operation.
• If you're installing the strip light in a channel, make sure to insulate the bare wire leads to prevent any risk of short circuits.
• Use silicone or a suitable sealant to protect the neon from moisture and environmental wear.
• Keep in mind: this product is not designed to withstand exposure to harsh chemicals.

FYI: This is helpful information, but not necessarily needed for your installation.

There are two common formats for addressable LED products: SPI and DMX. While both allow for advanced control, they function quite differently.

SPI (Serial Port Interface)

SPI strips typically have four connections: positive, negative, and two data lines. They are controlled with an SPI controller. If you cut the strip and reconnect it as a new lead, the addressing restarts. SPI allows for animations right out of the box and is easier to set up than DMX. DMX is a more complex setup and requires more knowledge of the lighting control.

DMX (Digital Multiplex)

DMX strips work differently because the addresses are pre-programmed into the strip. If you cut a DMX strip in the middle, the segment retains its existing address rather than starting over. This makes it easier to maintain consistent addressing across multiple sections. The advantage of DMX is its compatibility with existing lightboards. It provides greater flexibility and control, though it can also be more complex to set up.

1. Determine the length you need for your project. You must use the cut lines to adjust the length of the LED strip light. If you need to cut the LED strip light, steps 2 and 3 explain the cutting process.
2. Locate the cut line on the strip.
3. Using a sharp scissors, make a clean cut along the marked line.

Using Connectors

This method uses LED Solderless Bite Connectors to provide a quick and easy installation of LED strips. If planning to use bite connectors, confirm that you have the right type and quantity of connectors in hand.

To install the connectors, simply insert both ends of the strip lights into the ‘mouth’ sides of the connector and use pliers to compress the connector until it “bites” the strip. Make sure that all of the teeth are compressed fully.

Test your connection.

Soldering

The strip light comes with wires on both ends. Use these if you can because it’s a lot easier to use the pre-soldered leads. Only cut and solder if you absolutely have to.

Step 1: Prepare your workspace

Set up a clean, stable work surface with good lighting and ventilation. Make sure your strip light and wires are within easy reach.

Step 2: Tin the wire ends

Using your soldering iron, apply a small amount of solder to the exposed ends of your wires. This process, called tinning, creates a protective layer and makes it easier to attach the wires to the strip.

Step 3: Tin the solder on the copper pads

Locate the copper pads at the end of your strip light section. Gently heat the pad with the soldering iron, then apply a small amount of solder.

Step 4: Connect the wires

Carefully align each tinned wire end with the corresponding copper pad and solder them in place. Ensure the connections are secure without creating solder bridges between pads.

Step 5: Let it cool

Allow the soldered connections to cool completely before moving or testing the strip light.

Step 6: Test the connection

Tug on the wire and make sure it doesn’t break. After you connect the strip light to a power supply and SPI controller, you’ll then be able to confirm that it lights up properly. 

1. Determine where you want the strip light located.
2. When installing light strips using the adhesive backing, press from one end to the other to prevent air pockets or raised sections. Be careful to limit contact with skin to ensure a minimal transfer of oil from skin to LED strip backing.
3. OPTIONAL: If strip lights are installed into Aluminum LED Strip Channel, be sure to clean the channel to assure the strip sticks. Choose the right channel for your strip by viewing our Mounting Channel Compatibility Chart .
4. Mount the Non-dimmable power supplies and Casambi SPI Controllers out of the way by using mounting screws included in their packaging.
5. Follow electrical code for concealment of any wires.

1. Once you have the strip light cut to length and mounted, it is time to make the electrical connection.
2. On the strip light, there are four wires: a red, black, blue and green wire. The red wire is the V (+) wire and the black wire is the V (-) wire as indicated on the strip itself. The blue and green wire are both signal data wires.

1. Count how many sections there are. This number needs to be input into the SPI controller app to accurately display animations. An uncut strip light reel at 16.4 feet has 50 sections.
2. Test the strip light to ensure it is working properly.
3. That's it! Great job!